Sewing: Sequence

ruconstruction 3As a strong proponent of teaching pattern and draping to the beginning sewer, I often am asked: where do I start to sew? How does it all go together and in what order?

There is a method to the madness of sewing any garment together.  Of course it all starts with your cutting and marking. It’s crucial that you clip in to all your notches as well as the dart legs and use a tracing wheel and pattern tracing paper, or tailor tacks, or drill holes to indicate darts, pleats, pocket placements, gather markings and zipper placements before you separate your pattern pieces from the cut pieces.  These are your street signs of where you are going and what matches to what other piece.

Always the very first stitches you do should be on a test piece of fabric to make sure your stitch is balanced, make sure you have the correct size needle as well. If you are stay stitching   ( necklines) this is your first step. Darts are your second step. Open ended darts are backstitched and either tied off on the dart point, or backstitched into the dart, invisible from the front.  Pleats such as on a waistband or shoulder would also be one of your first steps.

Typical and traditional sequences are:( there are always exceptions to the rule as well!)Tops and shirts:

Simple tops and Tees

  1. Back to fronts at shoulder
  2. Put ease stitch if needed in sleeve cap
  3. Insert sleeve to armhole on the flat
  4. Close on the side seam/underarm
  5. Attach collar ( tee shirt)
  6. Cover stitch sleeve and bottom hems

Blouses and Shirts

  1. yoke to back
  2. join shoulder and “bag” out yoke
  3. Fuse placket and collar and cuffs
  4. attach cuff to sleeve and make sleeve placket
  5. Ease sleeve cap
  6. Attach sleeve on the flat
  7. Make front placket
  8. Set Collar
  9. Close side seam/underarm
  10. Hem
  11. Buttonholes and buttons

Simple pant

  1. Front to back at out seam
  2. Front to back at Inseam
  3. put one leg in the other , right sides together and close through the rise( crotch) seam
  4. set  standard zipper ( if it is not a pull on)
  5. Make elastic casing on top or set waistband
  6. Hem
 I hope these simple explanations will help you when assembling your original designs! Feel free to post a question and stay tuned for more construction tips and tricks to come!

 

 

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